Adaptation log
2026-05-29 · M2_created
M1 archived to plans/archive/M1_base_transition.yaml.
M2_strength drafted from macrocycle.yaml M2 spec + ref §1.2.1 + §4.2.
M1 outcomes feeding M2:
- Half-crimp 20mm max hang tested 2026-05-27: +15kg. Working weight M2 = +12.5kg.
- Back squat 1RM unknown — establish via 3RM in W1 Mon.
- Outdoor onsight upgraded to 6b+ (first onsight 2026-05-24). Redpoint target M2 = 6c.
- Tue May 26: athlete cycled instead of planned indoor climbing (schedule deviation, no impact).
- Bike fit note: back pain + hand numbness at high HR May 26. HR cap <145 until adjusted.
benchmarks.yaml updated with hang test result and onsight grade bump.
Interference rule: max hang (Wed) and heavy strength (Mon) never same day per §1.2.
Hang 2nd session: Fri if not climbing outdoors.
Deload W3 confirmed (macrocycle spec): 60% volume, intensity preserved.
2026-06-02 · W2_mon_strength_adjusted_W1_missed
W1_mon_strength (Jun 1) not completed — athlete did easy gravel ride instead.
No climbing logged May 29–Jun 1 either (MTB Achenkirch May 30, gravel May 28+Jun 1).
Fingers 9 days rested heading into W1_wed_hang_boulder.
Garmin state Jun 2: TSB=117 (very fresh), ACWR=0.50 (low load flag), readiness=81.
Adaptations: W2_mon now treats itself as first M2 strength session —
DL 5×3@120kg primary (not secondary at 122.5kg), establish squat 3RM (no W1 baseline).
W3 deload DL corrected from 122.5kg → 120kg (removes spurious +2.5kg assumption).
2026-06-03 · W2_fri_note_corrected_bikepacking_timing
State check Jun 3: TSB=117 (very fresh), ACWR=0.50 (low flag — expected from light W1),
readiness=81 HIGH, HRV BALANCED 78ms, sleep 81-92. All §1.9 gates green.
W1 was effectively transition-light: MTB May 30 (load 94), easy gravel only otherwise,
strength missed Mon. Tonight is W1_wed_hang_boulder — first M2 max hang session, full go.
One adaptation: W2_fri note removed ambiguous "lower intensity for bikepacking" advisory —
bikepacking is Jun 13-15 (W3), not W2 weekend. With TSB=117 and readiness 81,
W2_fri executes at full intensity. All other W2 sessions unchanged.
Feedback inbox empty. Hang test result (+15kg max, +12.5kg working weight) already
in benchmarks.yaml from Jun 2 adaptation.
2026-06-03 · W2_state_check_no_structural_changes
State check Jun 3 (fresh snapshot 11:48): TSB=96, ACWR=0.60 (low flag, normal for M2
entry), readiness=76 HIGH, HRV BALANCED 77ms, sleep 82. All §1.9 gates green.
Jun 2 activities:
AM — light strength session (40kg DL ×3, bent-over row ×3, wrist ext 3×15 at 6kg,
20min load 9). Antagonist/maintenance level only. NOT M2 strength block.
W2_mon (Jun 8) remains first real M2 strength session (DL 5×3 @120kg).
PM — W1_tue indoor climbing (83min, load 41): 5 limit routes UIAA 7-9, all vertical,
all auto belay, no overhang. Forearm strain, no total exhaustion. 8/8+ understood
critical move on 4th attempt. Garmin notes contain instruction feedback (see
skill commit same date).
Tonight W1_wed_hang_boulder: first M2 max hang. All markers green — variant A/B.
W2 plan unchanged. No structural adaptations needed.
2026-06-03 · skill_instruction_quality_fixes
Source: athlete Garmin note from 2026-06-02 indoor climbing.
Three feedback items addressed:
1. "4-6 attempts total or per route?" — intent is per-route, up to 4 tries, then move
on. Fixed all W2_tue limit descriptions: "X routes, up to 4 tries per route."
2. "10min antagonist is not actionable" — expanded to specific exercises (ref §1.10.2)
across all remaining sessions (W1_wed tonight, W2_tue, W2_wed, W3_tue, W3_wed):
wrist ext 2×15, band ext rotation 2×15/side, push-ups 2×10, pull-aparts 2×15.
3. "Can concentrate on one move but not more" — confirmed one-cue principle already
in plan. Simplified technique descriptions to lead with cue, stripped sub-instructions.
No session structure changes — instruction clarity only.
2026-06-03 · skill_exercise_table_format
Added exercises: table structure to all remaining session variants (W1_wed–W3_wed).
Each variant now has structured exercise rows: exercise / reps/time / sets / rest / notes.
Descriptions trimmed to technique cue only — table carries the structured content.
Renderer updated (render_html.py) to display exercise tables as HTML in the session sheet.
Columns: Exercise | Reps/Time | Sets | Rest | Notes.
2026-06-05 · W2_hang_weight_locked_to_12_5kg
State Jun 5: TSB=134 (very fresh), ACWR=0.40 (low — light W1 expected), readiness=81 HIGH,
HRV UNBALANCED 76ms (day 1–2, not yet 3d persistent — no intensity reduction triggered),
sleep 89, RHR 40. W2 = first real load week of M2.
W1_wed_hang_boulder (Jun 3) log: variant B (4 sets at +12.5kg), tendon sensation post-session
(not pain). Set 5 not reached → no "add 2.5kg" progression signal per §1.2.6.
Adaptations (2):
1. W2_fri_outdoor_or_hang / hang2_cycling: weight note clarified to "+12.5kg" only.
Removed the "+15kg option (check log)" — ambiguous with variant B W1 result.
2. W2_wed_hang_boulder notes: replaced "check W1_wed log" with explicit rule —
stay +12.5kg; advance to +15 only when all 5 W2 sets easy + tendons clear.
No session structure changes. Inbox empty.
2026-06-06 · W2_mon_tue_rest_W3_weekend_outdoor_sport
Athlete-requested schedule change Jun 6:
W2_mon (Jun 8): strength session → rest day. No training.
W2_tue (Jun 9): limit climbing → rest day. No training.
W2_wed (Jun 10): unchanged — bouldering + max hang, variant B default.
Note: Mon+Tue rest means 4 days rest before Wed hang (Thu W1→Sun+Mon+Tue). Extra fresh.
W3_fri (Jun 12): reduced to 60min half session (was 120min). Travel/arrival day.
W3_sat (Jun 13): cycling → outdoor sport climbing. Bikepacking cancelled.
Deload volume: max 2 redpoint attempts, rest aerobic. Technique: route reading §1.5.11.
W3_sun (Jun 14): rest → outdoor sport climbing day 2.
Skin governs hard attempts. Technique: hip-to-wall §1.5.6.
2026-06-06 · W2_thu_bw_prep_before_outdoor_trip
W2_thu (Jun 11): hard rest → light bodyweight prep session (35min).
Antagonist circuit + hip mobility only. No heavy compounds.
Rationale: 3 consecutive outdoor sport climbing days start Fri Jun 12 — CNS must be fresh.
Variant rest available if any finger tenderness.