Training plan — Send a 7a outdoors at summer climbing trip

Rendered 2026-05-15 · 14 weeks to peak 2026-08-22
base transition
strength
power
power endurance
peak prep
peak performance

Active flags

Current mesocycle
M1_base_transition · base_transition · 2026-05-15 to 2026-05-28
Re-establish baseline, retest benchmarks, build aerobic floor.
Target distribution: easy 80%, moderate 15%, hard 5%

W1 · 2026-05-15 — 2026-05-21

Movement reacquaintance, easy aerobic, no max efforts.
2026-05-15 · thursday climbing · volume_routes
Gate: readiness_>40
A 90 min · RPE 5-6
15min warm-up traverses. 8 routes at onsight grade and 1 below. No falls allowed (training movement quality). 5min between routes. Antagonist circuit at end (ref §1.10.2): 10min.
B 75 min · RPE 5
15min warm-up. 6 routes same scheme. Antagonist 10min.
C 45 min · RPE 4
Warm-up + 3-4 routes easy, technique focus.
if_readiness_<40: skip and use mobility 20min
if_finger_tender: drop to variant C, no crimping problems
2026-05-16 · friday REST
Full rest or 20min easy walk. No structured training. Good day for foam rolling (ref §1.10.3) if tight.
2026-05-17 · saturday cycling · zone_2_base
Gate: readiness_>35
A 120 min · RPE 4-5
Steady Z2 ride, target HR ref §3.2 zone calc.
B 90 min · RPE 4
Z2 ride, slightly shorter.
C 60 min · RPE 3
Easy spin Z1-Z2 indoor or outdoor.
if_weather_bad: indoor trainer Z2, can shorten to 60min variant C
2026-05-18 · sunday strength · anatomical_adaptation
Gate: readiness_>45
A 60 min · RPE 5-6
Squat 3x10 @ 60% 1RM, RDL 3x10 @ 60%, pull-up 3x submax, push-up 3x submax, plank 3x45s. Ref §4.2 AA phase.
B 45 min · RPE 5
Same exercises, 2 sets each.
C 25 min · RPE 4
Goblet squat 2x12, RDL 2x10, push-up + pull-up 2x submax.
2026-05-19 · monday REST
Active recovery only — walk, easy mobility, sleep priority.
2026-05-20 · tuesday climbing · technique_focus
Gate: readiness_>40
A 90 min · RPE 4-5
Warm-up. 4×4 technique drills: silent feet, hover-hand, precise placement. Each drill 4 routes at moderate grade. Reference §1.6 (technique drills).
B 75 min · RPE 4
3 drills × 3 routes each. Slightly easier grade.
C 45 min · RPE 3
1-2 drills, focus on quality. Stop before fatigue.
2026-05-21 · wednesday testing · benchmark_assessment
Gate: readiness_>55
A 90 min · RPE 8-9 brief peaks
Full benchmark battery: 20mm max hang test (ref §1.2.1), short FTP test indoor (ref §3.2 ramp), 3RM goblet squat. Log results to athlete/benchmarks.yaml.
B 60 min · RPE 7-8 brief
Hang test + squat 3RM only. Defer FTP.
C 30 min · RPE 8 brief
Hang test only (most important — drives M2).
if_readiness_<55: defer test to Thursday or weekend
critical: DO NOT test if fingers tender or readiness <50. Bad benchmarks anchor next mesocycle wrong.

W2 · 2026-05-22 — 2026-05-28

Slightly higher volume, introduce first targeted session.
2026-05-22 · thursday climbing · pyramid_routes
Gate: readiness_>45
A 100 min · RPE 6-7
Pyramid: 2 routes at onsight-2, 2 at onsight-1, 2 at onsight, 1 attempt at onsight+1 (project pace, no falls). Antagonist circuit.
B 80 min · RPE 5-6
Same scheme, drop one tier. No onsight+1 attempt.
C 50 min · RPE 4
Easy volume only, 5-6 routes at onsight-1.
2026-05-23 · friday REST
Full rest.
2026-05-24 · saturday cycling · zone_2_extended
Gate: readiness_>40
A 150 min · RPE 5-6
Z2 long ride
B 120 min · RPE 4-5
Z2 only
C 75 min · RPE 4
Z2 short
2026-05-25 · sunday strength · anatomical_adaptation_progressive
Gate: readiness_>45
A 65 min · RPE 6-7
Same as W1_sun A
B 50 min · RPE 5
Same exercises
C 25 min · RPE 4
Minimum dose — squat
2026-05-26 · monday REST
Full rest day.
2026-05-27 · tuesday climbing · climbing_plus_intro_hangboard
Gate: readiness_>50
FIRST hangboard introduction. 60-70% effort only. NOT a test. Purpose is tissue priming for M2, not strength gain.
A 90 min · RPE 5-6
Warm-up. 4 routes easy. Then hangboard: 4x10s half-crimp at 60% of W1 max hang result, 3min rest. 4 more routes light.
B 75 min · RPE 5
Same but 3 hangboard sets, 3 routes either side.
C 50 min · RPE 4
Skip hangboard. Routes only.
if_fingers_tender: variant C, no hangboard
2026-05-28 · wednesday review · planning_session
End of M1. Review: - benchmark results vs goals - subjective feel and recovery patterns - whether M2 strength plan needs adjustment Run adaptation prompt to draft M2 in detail.